When I was in Paris last year, I tried to get into this restaurant after reading about it from a local review but I was late. Lunch service starts at noon and finishes at 2:00 pm. They're open for dinner (reservation a must) but I was leaving that evening.
So I tried again this week and this time I made sure I was there promptly at noon. Too prompt that I was the first customer and was 10 minutes early for the 12:15 pm sitting! One of the owners, Bertrand, who acts as the maître d' let me in anyway and allowed me to browse around their restaurant shop. The bistro is also a cave and an epicerie. They sell a great selection of wines as well as locally-sourced delicatessen. The whiff of stew and spice cooking in the kitchen made me hungry.
The co-owner chef, Tom, prepares a seasonal menu everyday which they call "Retour du Marche" - composed of a starter, main course, cheese and dessert for 31EU. For a glass of their house wine, an additional 3.50EU. They also have an a la carte menu if one prefers a lighter meal.
The restaurant specializes in good old bistro fare - rich, French stews. No surprise since owners are rugby aficionados with Bertrand, spending some time in New Zealand for the love of the game.
Verdict - thumbs up! You must come to this place with an appetite! Portion sizes are huge, the chef doesn't hesitate to spoil you and the atmosphere is very welcoming. An American double X sized couple walked in. Two naughty thoughts came across my mind, 1) would the small seats hold their weight (answer - yes) and 2) they came to the right place to degustate!
Retour du Marche for the day was a huge bowl of pumpkin soup, leg of lamb stew served with couscous, slice of blue cheese and pear compote and for dessert, creme brulee. I am not a fan of lamb but this stew was slow-cooked to perfection and I almost finished the whole leg. At dessert, I was beginning to feel like Mr. Creosote in Monty Python's Meaning of Life.
Bon appetit!
PS - Bistroy Le Papilles is located at 30 rue Gay Lussac close to the Luxembourg Gardens. It is accessible via Luxembourg RER.
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