Monday, November 4, 2013

Fine Dining, Parisian Style

#Fine Dining, #Nouvelle Cuisine, #Michelin Guide 

Outside of the many sights and museums, one of the main reasons I like visiting Paris is the endless dining options. In almost every section of the city one can find descent meal options.

However, if budget allows, I would also recommend to check out and experience 'nouvelle cuisine' at one of the Michelin-starred restaurants around Paris. Michelin star awards started in the 1900s via a travel guide published by tire manufacturer brothers Andre and Edouard Michelin to encourage car travel thus sale of car tires.

The French, being lovers of good food, follow this guide seriously. They have a tradition of taking annual family trips. Along their planned routes, they allocate time to visit restaurants rated favorably under the +Michelin guide even to this day. The guide mets out stars after arduous review by their secret auditors. 3 stars mean the best of the best.

This trip, K treated me to one - Le Diane, a one-star restaurant located at Hotel Fouquet's Barriere on Avenue George V. The restaurant is located along the street considered the 'Triangle d'Or' in Paris. Reason - it's the centre of fashion and the most expensive address in this city.




Chef Jean-Yves Leuranguer, a recipient of the "Meilleur Ouvrier de France," is known for turning French cuisine classics into a more contemporary rendition. This we were curious to see and taste. So we opted for the "Ambrosial Menu" which is a "surprise menu" allowing the chef to decide what to serve our table. The headwaiter asks if one has any allergies or diet restrictions and/or preferences. This is good. Someone is paying attention to details. To make it easy as well, K opted for the wine pairing as suggested by their sommelier.

To me, French fine dining is half theatrics and half degustation. It could be intimidating if one is not used to the formality as well as the process that the "show" requires. It could also be discomforting to have at least 3 waitstaff hovering around you at most times. My advise, be yourself. You are the guest and therefore, you're in control. If you're not comfortable with the menu in French ask for an English one. If the restaurant doesn't have one (which is unlikely), ask for a translation.

Now on to our dinner. There were very few surprises. Since it is Autumn, I'm aware that the season tends towards game and more meat options. It surprised me, however, to hear/read that one of the main options was Wagyu beef from New Zealand. The restaurant is supposed to be focusing on "produits terroir," locally-produced products. I did like the flavored butters we had at the table, one is regular, one smoky and the other slightly spiced. I also enjoyed the cone-shaped moussed-filled starters they served at the start of the meal.






Le Diane fans will probably not like what they are about to hear - for us, the meal was underwhelming overall. Portion sizes, though small, were actually very filling. What disappointed me is that the main courses were forgettable. Maybe the gourmet menu (another choice they had together with an A la carte) would have been better. I was hoping to be 'pleasantly surprised,' but not really. It was the same feeling we had when we walked out of Alain Ducasse's Plaza Athenee Resto and that was a 3 star. Something was missing. Hmmm.





After blowing a few hundred Euros, K and I agreed that our meals at restaurants like +Taillevent, +Les Ambassadeurs or even at +Soto in NY (all are Michelin starred) were much more memorable in taste, service and ambiance. In all places, the theatrics were superbly executed in a muted manner and the chefs let the sublime taste of their creations speak for themselves.

Perhaps it is best to stick with our favorites, next time.

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