Tuesday, October 22, 2013

Jemaa el Fna: "The Mosque at the end of the World"

In my view, it is the Square that IS Marrakech.

Chaotic, exotic, ancient, mysterious, commercial, religious, colorful. It's an assault to the senses. Visually, aurally.

Getting in and out of the area is an adventure in itself. You get real lessons in:

1) Navigation - the narrow alleyways forming the Medina's neighborhood easily distracts with varied stimulants - trinkets, trash, snake charmers, fortune tellers, monkey minders, hammams, hawkers, tourist traps, stray cats, kamikaze motorists, soccer-avid young men, horse-drawn carriages.

2) Social psychology - who gets the upper hand? You or the shop owner trying to peddle his wares? Or perhaps, the local stranger pretending to help you regain your sense of direction but in reality he's only helping in order to extract a tip from unsuspecting you? The one thing to remember is that here no one is really willing to help unless you can give them something in return. It's the center of commerce, after all. The Wall Street of Morocco.

3) Patience - lots of it. As a foreigner, walking on your own, you're marked with euro/dollar signs. Ca-Ching!

4) Cunning - related to #2, your element of surprise in order to balance the equation without insulting the locals.

In other words, it is FUN! The joy is having an open mind and absorbing what the experience brings.

The only way to get to know a city is by walking it. Marrakech is no exception. A smile and polite thank yous always even up the score. Believe me, I know.

It is worth taking the risk? Yes, absolutely. In spite of the chaos, it's a safe and a wonderful place to explore.

Oh, by the way, if you're a Muslim, don't forget to visit the Koutoubia Mosque and view the minaret. Sorry for you 'infidels,' like me, you're not allowed in. The mosque was built after the Almoravid conquest of the city in 1150. The minaret's design influenced similar constructions in Spanish Andalusia and other parts of North Africa.

Once you've had your sensual overload, take a breather in one of the many cafés surrounding the square and wait...the scene changes at dusk. As the sky assumes a pinkish hue, and you witness one of the most stunning sunsets, all ills will dissipate and you've once again been lured back to exotica.

If after all this, you haven't learned any life lessons, then you can really say, "the Mosque is the end of your world!"
























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