Bistroy Les Papilles

Bistroy Les Papilles - One Fine Find

When I was in Paris last year, I tried to get into this restaurant after reading about it from a local review but I was late. Lunch service starts at noon and finishes at 2:00 pm. They're open for dinner (reservation a must) but I was leaving that evening. 

So I tried again this week and this time I made sure I was there promptly at noon. Too prompt that I was the first customer and was 10 minutes early for the 12:15 pm sitting! One of the owners, Bertrand, who acts as the maître d' let me in anyway and allowed me to browse around their restaurant shop. The bistro is also a cave and an epicerie. They sell a great selection of wines as well as locally-sourced delicatessen. The whiff of stew and spice cooking in the kitchen made me hungry.

The co-owner chef, Tom, prepares a seasonal menu everyday which they call "Retour du Marche" - composed of a starter, main course, cheese and dessert for 31EU.  For a glass of their house wine, an additional 3.50EU. They also have an a la carte menu if one prefers a lighter meal.

The restaurant specializes in good old bistro fare - rich, French stews. No surprise since owners are rugby aficionados with Bertrand, spending some time in New Zealand for the love of the game.

Verdict - thumbs up! You must come to this place with an appetite! Portion sizes are huge, the chef doesn't hesitate to spoil you and the atmosphere is very welcoming. An American double X sized couple walked in. Two naughty thoughts came across my mind, 1) would the small seats hold their weight (answer - yes) and 2) they came to the right place to degustate!

Retour du Marche for the day was a huge bowl of pumpkin soup, leg of lamb stew served with couscous, slice of blue cheese and pear compote and for dessert, creme brulee. I am not a fan of lamb but this stew was slow-cooked to perfection and I almost finished the whole leg. At dessert, I was beginning to feel like Mr. Creosote in Monty Python's Meaning of Life.

Bon appetit!

PS - Bistroy Le Papilles is located at 30 rue Gay Lussac close to the Luxembourg Gardens. It is accessible via Luxembourg RER.

Paris Self-Guided Foodie Tour

Paris Self-Guided Foodie Tour - The First of Many

Fresh produce and Parisian daily life come hand in hand. I can't imagine a resident of Paris who's never been to one of the many open air produce markets around the city. This too, is one of the major reasons why Paris and France in general got its reputation as a culinary capital.

To a newbie, Paris is divided into 20 districts (arrondissements) in a circular manner with the 1st arrondissement being the center. Typically, the higher the district's number, the farther it is from the city center. Each one of these districts functions like a small village with its own unique character and each one has scheduled open air markets during the week.

Paris City Plan

My free day this trip being Friday, I'm off to the western side of central Paris, Raspail Market (Marche Raspail) on Boulevard Raspail between Rue de Rennes and Rue de Cherche-Midi. This outdoor food market is on the 7th arrondissement and is widely considered 'the most chic in Paris.' And also one of the most expensive. Go figure.

There's a wide variety of choices from cheeses, olives, fruits to fresh meats, rotisseries and charcuteries. Flowers, wines, herbs, antiques and knick knacks.

On Sundays, the market turns into an organic produce market only.

I can spend hours browsing and ogling the variety of products as well as bantering with the stall keepers in my broken French. I figure it's a basic instinct - both parties sense the common desire and find ways to get the message across.  Win-win.

 A few feet away, after I've had my fill of the market, it's time for some coffee at Cafes Richard on rue Cherche-Midi. This shop has a wide selection of coffee and tea and almost anything to do with both! It is the uber-chic version of Starbucks.

 A break here certainly set my mood for my next stop - the La Grand Epicerie de Paris by Bon Marche. If Cafés Richard puts Starbucks to shame, this supermarket owned by Bon Marche puts Whole Foods and Dean and Deluca combined on their knees. This is the Mecca for food lovers! The store has a wide selection of high-end food products whatever your heart desires. I was in heaven! They even have bottled water from all over the world. 

Well, it shouldn't be any surprise - the LVMH Group now owns La Bon Marche. I highly recommend you check the place out on the corner of rue du Bac and rue de Sevres. 

After which then you can saunter over to 81 Rue de l'Universite. It was the Paris home of American gourmet diva, Julia Child. 

 Parfait!

The Argan Tree and the Goats

The Argan tree, the goats and the oil on the road to Essaouira

Deciding to see a little bit of the area outside of Marrakech, we've zeroed in on a coastal town of Essaouira, about 250 km west of the city. It is documented to be preoccupied since prehistoric times. 

The journey to Essaouira proved to be an eye opener and an educational one. Traveling on a well-paved road, the landscape is interesting. Miles of barren land, mud huts, desert and occasional patches of olive groves. Curious how some areas seem to have patches of vegetation and others not, I asked our driver/guide Mustafa why. He said there is water underground but to dig a well costs money. So the landscape changes depending on whether the landowner has or has not.

Every other shop around Marrakech seems to be peddling Argan oil - as cooking oil or salad dressing (less trans fat) and as a cosmetic (apparently good for your skin) and is currently one of the major ingredients in several well know cosmetic brands. The road to Essaouira is no exception simply because the area is where the Argan tree is grown. Mother Nature knows how to balance the equation. The Argan tree provides a means of livelihood for a population who otherwise would have been without simply by being born in the middle of a desert. 

Then there are the herd of goats that the locals raise for their meat who happen to love the bark of the Argan nut. So the goats thrive on the bark, the locals harvest the nuts for its oil and the circle of life whirls.

Then the tourists...and the goat-bearing Argan tree! How can one beat such an unexpected sight!

This is why I just love to travel. 

Riad Azoulay - A Gem in Marrakech

Riad Azoulay - A Peaceful Retreat in Marrakech

For the most part, I'm not a fan of huge hotels. I travel a lot for a living and in order to feel more at home, or not to miss home too much, I gravitate towards smaller hotels. I've found that for the most part, I also get more personal service. I also avoid staying in the 'center of town.' To me that signals 'touristlandia.'

Choosing a place to stay in Marrakech, I applied the same principle. After surfing online, reading travel sites and online reviews, I booked a room at Riad Azoulay and kept my fingers crossed.

As a background, Riads are traditional Moroccan houses or palaces with an interior courtyard or garden. The Riads are inward focus which allowed for family privacy (particularly for women) and harsh weather of Morocco. According to Wikipedia, the entrance to these houses is a major transitional experience and encourages reflection because all of the rooms open into the central atrium space. In the central garden of traditional riads there are often four orange or lemon trees and possibly a fountain.

We landed at dusk and after staying in line at immigration for an hour, K was starting to feel anxious. Even worst, when we got off the prearranged taxi from the airport and met by the Riad's staff on a street corner, instead of in front of the hotel, K and I looked at each other and he asked me what have I done this time? Then a walk in a narrow, dim alley. Hearts beating, the hotel staff knocked on a door and...

The genie came out of a bottle and gave us a gem! Peace and quiet, simple beauty, an oasis!

Riad Azoulay is indeed a very pleasant surprise. Riad Azoulay, a 9-room house used to be owned by a rich Moroccan landlord, has been carefully restored by its new Italian owners to its former beauty. Sandro (architect) and Massimiliano (interior designer, hotelier) together with their local Moroccan staff, and their two lovely dogs, and turtles, treated us like royal guests from the moment we walked into their Riad. We were captivated and it was hard to get out.

The pool at the center of the house and the open roof provide a cooling effect. What genius the Moroccan ancestors were for inventing a natural air-conditioning system!

The attention to detail - inside the room, the service and the food - is excellent. To top it all, because K is naturally curious about architecture, we became fast friends with the owners, Sandro and Massimiliano.

Next time you visit Marrakech, I highly recommend you stay at Riad Azoulay.

Moroccan Cuisine

Tajine, couscous, grilled meats, pastries and more

I started with the Spice Souks for my first blog because as in any cuisine, especially Moroccan, #Spices are the nuclei. Moroccan dishes are said to contain more spices than any other cuisine in the world. I can't describe with justice the scent of a Moroccan spice - sweet, tangy, nutty, delicate, a balm for the soul. It's complex yet appetizing - a reflection of the country's interactions with other cultures and nations over the centuries with primarily Berber, Moorish and Arab influences.

Tajine is one such dish. It is of Berber origin and is named after the earthenware pot in which it is cooked. It is a rich stew of meat - beef, chicken, lamb or fish - which also includes vegetables and sometimes fruits. A vegetarian version is also available.

Couscous is the Moroccan national dish, typically served during lunch. Did you know that couscous is used to serve a sheep's head? I'm sure you can be served one if you want, especially the time of Eid-Al-Adha - the Festival of Sacrifice - around mid-October. We were in Morocco at the tail end of the long holiday so I saw some remnants of the feast.

Never miss breakfast while in Morocco. The yogurt, homemade jams, Moroccan coffee, khobz - local bread, Berber crepes. Then there is the Moroccan omelette. One word - divine!

Tea time is a treat with the variety of pastries available. I love nutty pastries and Moroccan sweets are a balanced combination of nuts, fruits - figs, apricot, sesame seeds, etc. Never miss Patisserie Morocain at the airport!

If you want to learn more about Moroccan food, www.moroccanfood.about.com. +Christine Benlafquih is a great resource on the topic.

Next stop - the Riads of Marrakech!