The Thanksgiving Feast

#Thanksgiving #Food #Family

After coming from Manila for a short trip to pick up my mom, I have not had much energy to do anything - until realization set in. I'm hosting both K's and my family for Thanksgiving dinner and I only have 4 days to prepare. Being the only person who seems interested in cooking and a stickler for freshly-prepared food, I had no choice but to pick up my game.

Fortunately, living in the Bay Area provides easy access not only to fresh produce but also to organic, sustainably-raised meats. The whole organic movement has its roots here with +Alice Waters' Chez Panisse just a few blocks from one of my favorite produce markets, Monterey Market.

The challenge is planning a menu that will please everyone, including two of K's siblings who are vegetarians and majority in some form of a diet. So I dig deep from my arsenal of 'feastful' recipes and decided to settle for a mixture of traditional western fare and one of my favorite cuisines, Persian. After all, we are all transplants, like the Pilgrims centuries ago, who brought this annual tradition to this continent. So my extended family has its own traditions as well.  

The menu?

Roasted organic turkey with homemade cranberry sauce
Roasted organic duck glazed with pomegranate juice
Applewood-smoked honey-glazed ham
Organic russet mashed potatoes with homemade gravy
Organic sweet potatoes topped with sweetened pralines 
Organic kale salad
Filipino spring rolls ala sister-in-law
Barberry Rice (Zeresht Polo)
Dill and Fava Beans Rice (Agha Polo)
Pumpkin Bread
Pumpkin Pie topped with Butterscotch praline ice cream

This chef took 2 days to prepare dinner for 13. I take it as a great compliment when at the end of this yearly get together there's nothing left but bones.

The following day, Friday, I didn't get out of bed until 3 pm. I totally deserved it.

Happy Thanksgiving, indeed!

Food for the Soul: The Kindness of Strangers and the Delicacies of an Old Street

#Taiwan #Jiufen #Foodie #Food #Travel

Oftentimes during my regular travel, I get to choose which city I spend my weekends. This trip, I've decided on +Taipei, Taiwan. I've been traveling here many times but more often than not, I've not had a weekend to spare.

This time, I resolved to learn more about this island nation by doing a solo day trip out of the city. This means train and bus travel, which by the way, is well-established here. Not being conversant in Mandarin, their native language, I was apprehensive at first. I've decided to go and visit Jiufen Old Street, a historic food street located in the Northeastern side of the country, about an hour by local train from Taipei. Armed with a map, instruction from the hotel's concierge, off I went. The hotel's doorman, once he learned I was off to Jiufen, assured me that it will be easy and he, too, proceeded to write down some more instructions for me before he sent me on a cab to the station.

Train was full of weekend camera-totting tourists, mostly locals. I felt much better. My motto when traveling in a strange area is to always follow the crowd. You'll reach your destination without much trouble, believe me. So at the designated train stop - +Ruifang, that's what I did. I followed the crowd to what I felt was the bus stop for Jiufen. Of course, I was totally right!

I was at the bottom of the line and one of the last people allowed to board so I found myself standing right behind the bus driver. Obviously, since I was the only one talking in English and traveling solo, I stood out. One of the most endearing things about the Taiwanese is that they are curious and once they sense that you're a foreigner, they won't hesitate to strike a conversation to practice their English.

A local at the train station whom I approached for directions could hardly speak English but instructed me via grunts and sign language. Then, in the bus, for some reason, the driver took me under his wing - I became his favorite tourist for the ride. Not only did he give me a brief history of the area in his broken English but also showed me a secret that only locals know about - 10 minutes past Jiufen there is a lookout that provides a stunning view of the ocean, the limestone cliff and the winding road that leads to the town. I had this to myself because all the others got off the bus in Jiufen. Not only that, this Good Samaritan of a bus driver implored me to take his umbrella. It was raining by the time he dropped me off my original destination, Jiufen Old Street. I was floored. What a blessing. He just doled out a whopping food for my soul - his kindness.

View from the Village's Peak

Jiufen was an old mining town. Its history dates back to the Qing Dynasty when this village housed only nine families. Since it is located in a mountainous area and very difficult to reach, every time a shipment arrives at the foot of the village, all provisions are divided into nine portions - in Chinese, Jiufen - which became the town's name. In 2001, for anime fans, the town was used as a model for the movie, Spirited Away.

For me, Jiufen's attraction are the endless food stalls lining up the entire street! Rice cakes, local sausages, pastries, steamed buns, dried anchovies, dried shrimps, roasted corn, vegetables, mushrooms, vegetable rolls, tea shops, cafés with stunning view of the village, and even the infamous stinky tofu! Ugh, I can't describe the smell you'll have to experience it yourself. I hear it is really delicious but not if it doesn't smell right. The entire street is a food haven. It is however a bit difficult to enjoy the area at leisure. It's narrow and there's way too many people on a weekend. I would go back here again - perhaps on a weekday.

Inspite of the crowd, one can find pockets along the street to rest, to sip a cup of tea or coffee, and enjoy the scenery while imagining life with less complications. After experiencing the kindness of the local people in Jiufen and my soul renewed, I think it is possible.

Food for thought, appeal for help

#TyphoonHaiyan #Yolanda #Philippines #ReliefEfforts

This week has been a very busy one for me. Balancing home and time with K with work demands plus planning for my upcoming trip.

We all get caught up in the daily grind. Somehow, us women are luckier than our male counterparts in that we have been endowed with multitasking powers. Sometimes I feel like a circus performer. Juggling, traversing the high-wire, bouncing off the trapeze and still manage to land with a smile. Don't you?

In the middle of all these acts this week, news of an impending mega storm about to hit my birth country, the Philippines became the headline. For some reason, though I was reading all the feeds online and via social media, the enormity of this natural phenomenon didn't quite register. Perhaps because I was focused on my own issues. In fact, over drinks with friends this Friday, when asked about the storm, I nonchalantly quipped that reports said it was bad but I think most people were able to evacuate. Boy, was I naive.

Returning home, I started getting news feeds and then I began to realize the magnitude of the disaster that just struck the southern part of the Philippines. Practically, half of the country was hard hit. Knowing a bit about the areas, if dawned on me that these are mostly coastal towns.

I braced myself for more bad news. True enough, the number of casualties being reported kept on climbing and photos of entire towns literally wiped out.

I woke up from a stupor. Unlike before where I would silently cry and then donate something, this time, I felt I needed to do something more.

So, I'm reaching out to all of you reading this to extend a helping hand. Best way at this time is to make cash donations via any of the organizations mentioned in the article from +Huffingtonpost below.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/11/09/philippines-haiyan-how-to-help-_n_4247106.html?utm_hp_ref=email_share

Do make sure to indicate for Typhoon Haiyan/Yolanda Relief and also mention how you want your donation spent. Water, food, medical supplies, medicines, tarp, tents, blankets are the most pressing need.

If you belong to an organization, you may also want to request that your company start a fundraising campaign for the relief effort.

Many thanks.

More on Spices

I've been pretty busy this week preparing for my upcoming trip and have not had the chance to write anything of interest.

However, the other day I found the following story on the NPR iPhone App which I found interesting and relevant given that I just wrote about #Spices a few days ago. Working for the food industry, I know for a fact that certain countries, particularly Japan, bans irradiated spices. In the US, most manufacturers, unless requested by a specific large customer as the interviewee alluded to, cringe on even considering use of non-irradiated pepper for the reasons below.

A Spice Buyer On Why Pepper Is Dirty, And How It Gets Clean
by Nancy Shute
NPR - November 1, 2013

This week's news that the Food and Drug Administration found that 12 percent of spices imported to the U.S. are contaminated was a little disheartening....

http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/10/31/242155387/a-spice-buyer-on-why-pepper-is-dirty-and-how-it-gets-clean?sc=17&f=1001

Fine Dining, Parisian Style

#Fine Dining, #Nouvelle Cuisine, #Michelin Guide 

Outside of the many sights and museums, one of the main reasons I like visiting Paris is the endless dining options. In almost every section of the city one can find descent meal options.

However, if budget allows, I would also recommend to check out and experience 'nouvelle cuisine' at one of the Michelin-starred restaurants around Paris. Michelin star awards started in the 1900s via a travel guide published by tire manufacturer brothers Andre and Edouard Michelin to encourage car travel thus sale of car tires.

The French, being lovers of good food, follow this guide seriously. They have a tradition of taking annual family trips. Along their planned routes, they allocate time to visit restaurants rated favorably under the +Michelin guide even to this day. The guide mets out stars after arduous review by their secret auditors. 3 stars mean the best of the best.

This trip, K treated me to one - Le Diane, a one-star restaurant located at Hotel Fouquet's Barriere on Avenue George V. The restaurant is located along the street considered the 'Triangle d'Or' in Paris. Reason - it's the centre of fashion and the most expensive address in this city.

Chef Jean-Yves Leuranguer, a recipient of the "Meilleur Ouvrier de France," is known for turning French cuisine classics into a more contemporary rendition. This we were curious to see and taste. So we opted for the "Ambrosial Menu" which is a "surprise menu" allowing the chef to decide what to serve our table. The headwaiter asks if one has any allergies or diet restrictions and/or preferences. This is good. Someone is paying attention to details. To make it easy as well, K opted for the wine pairing as suggested by their sommelier.

To me, French fine dining is half theatrics and half degustation. It could be intimidating if one is not used to the formality as well as the process that the "show" requires. It could also be discomforting to have at least 3 waitstaff hovering around you at most times. My advise, be yourself. You are the guest and therefore, you're in control. If you're not comfortable with the menu in French ask for an English one. If the restaurant doesn't have one (which is unlikely), ask for a translation.

Now on to our dinner. There were very few surprises. Since it is Autumn, I'm aware that the season tends towards game and more meat options. It surprised me, however, to hear/read that one of the main options was Wagyu beef from New Zealand. The restaurant is supposed to be focusing on "produits terroir," locally-produced products. I did like the flavored butters we had at the table, one is regular, one smoky and the other slightly spiced. I also enjoyed the cone-shaped moussed-filled starters they served at the start of the meal.

Le Diane fans will probably not like what they are about to hear - for us, the meal was underwhelming overall. Portion sizes, though small, were actually very filling. What disappointed me is that the main courses were forgettable. Maybe the gourmet menu (another choice they had together with an A la carte) would have been better. I was hoping to be 'pleasantly surprised,' but not really. It was the same feeling we had when we walked out of Alain Ducasse's Plaza Athenee Resto and that was a 3 star. Something was missing. Hmmm.

After blowing a few hundred Euros, K and I agreed that our meals at restaurants like +Taillevent, +Les Ambassadeurs or even at +Soto in NY (all are Michelin starred) were much more memorable in taste, service and ambiance. In all places, the theatrics were superbly executed in a muted manner and the chefs let the sublime taste of their creations speak for themselves.

Perhaps it is best to stick with our favorites, next time.

Bistroy Les Papilles

Bistroy Les Papilles - One Fine Find

When I was in Paris last year, I tried to get into this restaurant after reading about it from a local review but I was late. Lunch service starts at noon and finishes at 2:00 pm. They're open for dinner (reservation a must) but I was leaving that evening. 

So I tried again this week and this time I made sure I was there promptly at noon. Too prompt that I was the first customer and was 10 minutes early for the 12:15 pm sitting! One of the owners, Bertrand, who acts as the maître d' let me in anyway and allowed me to browse around their restaurant shop. The bistro is also a cave and an epicerie. They sell a great selection of wines as well as locally-sourced delicatessen. The whiff of stew and spice cooking in the kitchen made me hungry.

The co-owner chef, Tom, prepares a seasonal menu everyday which they call "Retour du Marche" - composed of a starter, main course, cheese and dessert for 31EU.  For a glass of their house wine, an additional 3.50EU. They also have an a la carte menu if one prefers a lighter meal.

The restaurant specializes in good old bistro fare - rich, French stews. No surprise since owners are rugby aficionados with Bertrand, spending some time in New Zealand for the love of the game.

Verdict - thumbs up! You must come to this place with an appetite! Portion sizes are huge, the chef doesn't hesitate to spoil you and the atmosphere is very welcoming. An American double X sized couple walked in. Two naughty thoughts came across my mind, 1) would the small seats hold their weight (answer - yes) and 2) they came to the right place to degustate!

Retour du Marche for the day was a huge bowl of pumpkin soup, leg of lamb stew served with couscous, slice of blue cheese and pear compote and for dessert, creme brulee. I am not a fan of lamb but this stew was slow-cooked to perfection and I almost finished the whole leg. At dessert, I was beginning to feel like Mr. Creosote in Monty Python's Meaning of Life.

Bon appetit!

PS - Bistroy Le Papilles is located at 30 rue Gay Lussac close to the Luxembourg Gardens. It is accessible via Luxembourg RER.

Paris Self-Guided Foodie Tour

Paris Self-Guided Foodie Tour - The First of Many

Fresh produce and Parisian daily life come hand in hand. I can't imagine a resident of Paris who's never been to one of the many open air produce markets around the city. This too, is one of the major reasons why Paris and France in general got its reputation as a culinary capital.

To a newbie, Paris is divided into 20 districts (arrondissements) in a circular manner with the 1st arrondissement being the center. Typically, the higher the district's number, the farther it is from the city center. Each one of these districts functions like a small village with its own unique character and each one has scheduled open air markets during the week.

Paris City Plan

My free day this trip being Friday, I'm off to the western side of central Paris, Raspail Market (Marche Raspail) on Boulevard Raspail between Rue de Rennes and Rue de Cherche-Midi. This outdoor food market is on the 7th arrondissement and is widely considered 'the most chic in Paris.' And also one of the most expensive. Go figure.

There's a wide variety of choices from cheeses, olives, fruits to fresh meats, rotisseries and charcuteries. Flowers, wines, herbs, antiques and knick knacks.

On Sundays, the market turns into an organic produce market only.

I can spend hours browsing and ogling the variety of products as well as bantering with the stall keepers in my broken French. I figure it's a basic instinct - both parties sense the common desire and find ways to get the message across.  Win-win.

 A few feet away, after I've had my fill of the market, it's time for some coffee at Cafes Richard on rue Cherche-Midi. This shop has a wide selection of coffee and tea and almost anything to do with both! It is the uber-chic version of Starbucks.

 A break here certainly set my mood for my next stop - the La Grand Epicerie de Paris by Bon Marche. If Cafés Richard puts Starbucks to shame, this supermarket owned by Bon Marche puts Whole Foods and Dean and Deluca combined on their knees. This is the Mecca for food lovers! The store has a wide selection of high-end food products whatever your heart desires. I was in heaven! They even have bottled water from all over the world. 

Well, it shouldn't be any surprise - the LVMH Group now owns La Bon Marche. I highly recommend you check the place out on the corner of rue du Bac and rue de Sevres. 

After which then you can saunter over to 81 Rue de l'Universite. It was the Paris home of American gourmet diva, Julia Child. 

 Parfait!

The Argan Tree and the Goats

The Argan tree, the goats and the oil on the road to Essaouira

Deciding to see a little bit of the area outside of Marrakech, we've zeroed in on a coastal town of Essaouira, about 250 km west of the city. It is documented to be preoccupied since prehistoric times. 

The journey to Essaouira proved to be an eye opener and an educational one. Traveling on a well-paved road, the landscape is interesting. Miles of barren land, mud huts, desert and occasional patches of olive groves. Curious how some areas seem to have patches of vegetation and others not, I asked our driver/guide Mustafa why. He said there is water underground but to dig a well costs money. So the landscape changes depending on whether the landowner has or has not.

Every other shop around Marrakech seems to be peddling Argan oil - as cooking oil or salad dressing (less trans fat) and as a cosmetic (apparently good for your skin) and is currently one of the major ingredients in several well know cosmetic brands. The road to Essaouira is no exception simply because the area is where the Argan tree is grown. Mother Nature knows how to balance the equation. The Argan tree provides a means of livelihood for a population who otherwise would have been without simply by being born in the middle of a desert. 

Then there are the herd of goats that the locals raise for their meat who happen to love the bark of the Argan nut. So the goats thrive on the bark, the locals harvest the nuts for its oil and the circle of life whirls.

Then the tourists...and the goat-bearing Argan tree! How can one beat such an unexpected sight!

This is why I just love to travel. 

Riad Azoulay - A Gem in Marrakech

Riad Azoulay - A Peaceful Retreat in Marrakech

For the most part, I'm not a fan of huge hotels. I travel a lot for a living and in order to feel more at home, or not to miss home too much, I gravitate towards smaller hotels. I've found that for the most part, I also get more personal service. I also avoid staying in the 'center of town.' To me that signals 'touristlandia.'

Choosing a place to stay in Marrakech, I applied the same principle. After surfing online, reading travel sites and online reviews, I booked a room at Riad Azoulay and kept my fingers crossed.

As a background, Riads are traditional Moroccan houses or palaces with an interior courtyard or garden. The Riads are inward focus which allowed for family privacy (particularly for women) and harsh weather of Morocco. According to Wikipedia, the entrance to these houses is a major transitional experience and encourages reflection because all of the rooms open into the central atrium space. In the central garden of traditional riads there are often four orange or lemon trees and possibly a fountain.

We landed at dusk and after staying in line at immigration for an hour, K was starting to feel anxious. Even worst, when we got off the prearranged taxi from the airport and met by the Riad's staff on a street corner, instead of in front of the hotel, K and I looked at each other and he asked me what have I done this time? Then a walk in a narrow, dim alley. Hearts beating, the hotel staff knocked on a door and...

The genie came out of a bottle and gave us a gem! Peace and quiet, simple beauty, an oasis!

Riad Azoulay is indeed a very pleasant surprise. Riad Azoulay, a 9-room house used to be owned by a rich Moroccan landlord, has been carefully restored by its new Italian owners to its former beauty. Sandro (architect) and Massimiliano (interior designer, hotelier) together with their local Moroccan staff, and their two lovely dogs, and turtles, treated us like royal guests from the moment we walked into their Riad. We were captivated and it was hard to get out.

The pool at the center of the house and the open roof provide a cooling effect. What genius the Moroccan ancestors were for inventing a natural air-conditioning system!

The attention to detail - inside the room, the service and the food - is excellent. To top it all, because K is naturally curious about architecture, we became fast friends with the owners, Sandro and Massimiliano.

Next time you visit Marrakech, I highly recommend you stay at Riad Azoulay.

Moroccan Cuisine

Tajine, couscous, grilled meats, pastries and more

I started with the Spice Souks for my first blog because as in any cuisine, especially Moroccan, #Spices are the nuclei. Moroccan dishes are said to contain more spices than any other cuisine in the world. I can't describe with justice the scent of a Moroccan spice - sweet, tangy, nutty, delicate, a balm for the soul. It's complex yet appetizing - a reflection of the country's interactions with other cultures and nations over the centuries with primarily Berber, Moorish and Arab influences.

Tajine is one such dish. It is of Berber origin and is named after the earthenware pot in which it is cooked. It is a rich stew of meat - beef, chicken, lamb or fish - which also includes vegetables and sometimes fruits. A vegetarian version is also available.

Couscous is the Moroccan national dish, typically served during lunch. Did you know that couscous is used to serve a sheep's head? I'm sure you can be served one if you want, especially the time of Eid-Al-Adha - the Festival of Sacrifice - around mid-October. We were in Morocco at the tail end of the long holiday so I saw some remnants of the feast.

Never miss breakfast while in Morocco. The yogurt, homemade jams, Moroccan coffee, khobz - local bread, Berber crepes. Then there is the Moroccan omelette. One word - divine!

Tea time is a treat with the variety of pastries available. I love nutty pastries and Moroccan sweets are a balanced combination of nuts, fruits - figs, apricot, sesame seeds, etc. Never miss Patisserie Morocain at the airport!

If you want to learn more about Moroccan food, www.moroccanfood.about.com. +Christine Benlafquih is a great resource on the topic.

Next stop - the Riads of Marrakech!